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This folding bonnet, known as a "Pumpkin Hood", was for winter-wear in the early 19th century. It would have been stuffed with wool. Folding bonnets for other seasons were made of silk. The one shown here would also give some shade to the face of the wearer. The term "calash" is from the French term for a carriage or "caleche," which had a top that folded down like a fan.